Well, I admit.. I may be a little sensitive in that not only do I live the smoke-free city Chicago (yea!), but I literally have just come back from Scandinavia, which you didn't even know which country had more clean or fresh air. I pretty much didn't even leave the airport when I was in a cloud of smoke... and then got in a taxi, and of course the driver was smoking. Grrrr. So yes, welcome to Serbia!!!! The land where it seems everyone smokes! Or fine, I will be fair, I guess it's more in your face when smoking is allowed in small enclosed spaces. But it has moved on since I was a kid and flew Jat Airways and they literally had the front half of the plane non-smoking and the back half smoking. No joke. Here are a couple of pics of smoking in the malls and the staff at a hospital where I shadowing smoking "secretly."
(the above is my fave.... smoking right in front of the "no smoking" sign. You will find here that is quite common.... yes there are signs, but quickly ignored).
So before coming to Serbia, I was looking forward to a month of freedom. Time to relax, work on some presentations I am doing in India, hang out, and just have fun. Actually, I don't know why I planned to be here for so long in the first place and I figured I would be maybe even a little bored. At one point my sister was supposed to meet me, but when you are traveling on the fly, sometimes I full dates out of my head and just plan around that. So that is what happened here.
But now that I am leaving, I not only am leaving feeling stressed and anxious, but I also wish I had even more time. If some of you don't know, my parents are from here. Well, my dad was born and raised here and my mom has lifelong friends here (she was raised in Russia). Soo... I pretty much walked in the apartment the first day and the phone was already ringing. Between visiting all of their friends and the kids of their friends (who are my age) getting fed as much as one can get fed, I also am here as part of my personal "world" physical therapy experience and had already made arrangements to volunteer at one hospital. Well, one connection led to the other, and the next thing you know I am bouncing around 3 different clinic settings in Belgrade. Eeek! I literally had to resort to my American type A ways of writing post-its to keep my life organized. I think I literally had one day when I was a lazy bum and lounged around for a few hours. But alas, it is more fun this way... I connected with some really and truly great people, and the time has flown by.
So here is Serbia in what I call "the good, the bad, and the ugly." And although I am generalizing Serbia, some things apply to former Yugoslavia and "Balkans" as a whole and also Europeaners.
The Good
-The people here I find intellectual and well-informed, they actually follow the news (oops). When you talk to people, they not only know what's going on in their own country, but they know world events. They actually know more about USA stuff than I do (oops #2). It's an awareness and it always makes for good conversations. It's been interesting just hearing their differences in opinions. I also am impressed with the fact that most people speak at least 2-4 languages.
-The people, despite all that they have gone through (bombed 4 times during the 20th century alone!) and as much as they complain about their country, they are fairly proud. Even a few times when they asked me what I thought about something or another and I would give a mediocre remark, they would almost be taken aback. It reminds me of something a family friend told me... she was raised here but moved to the States. She is a singer and performs here every now and then. So she brought her band here a few times and before she could "warn" them, a few people asked them what they thought of Serbia. So of course they reply, "eh, it's okay." And the locals were almost shocked and offended. Then she gave them the word of advice, "whenever and whatever they ask you, always say it is the best and/or wonderful." ha ha. It is really true, they are just very proud of their country, although again, are more than ready to admit their faults.
-There are some comments about this in the "bad" section, but the "good" people that are here, are really way over the top welcoming, accepting, hospitable, and generous people. Yes, there often is a barrier to get through and some other things (detailed in "bad"), but I almost feel guilty of the extent that people have gone through to make me feel at home, comfortable, and accepted. They are very well mannered, mindful, and are very polite about little things, calling to check in or if you need anything, calling to say thank you, bringing gifts or trinkets as needed. It is really nice! And another thing that I think is truly wonderful, and this applies to former Yugoslavia as a whole is the "kum and kuma," this is like godsister/godbrother/godparent x 1000. It is a HUGE honor to be asked to be a kum or kuma because this person is almost more than family to you (it cannot be a family member)... they typically run for generations and you select a kum (male for a male) and kuma (female for a female) for your wedding, like it is more than a best man or best woman because this is someone special for your life... really. You do not lose touch with a kum or kuma, and like I said, it can run for generations. The significance is huge here, and I know I am doing a horrible job of explaining it, because darn it, it is hard to explain. Typically they bend over backwards for you and vice versa and it is a very very special relationship and again, a huge honor.
-Sorry guys, but this is more applicable to the women. I have actually heard this from people not knowing I have connections to Serbia, but now that I am here, it is true. The woman dress extremely stylish and take care of themselves, hair and make-up done, the works. I look like a total bum here because I am in travel clothes. Except for some in the older generation (sorry), the younger female generation really make an effort to look nice and that is nice to see.
-Culture and cultural events are very big here and they have a ton of great events to go to, concerts, operas, shows, theatre, you name it. It's nice because we are not talking about a big money population here, they get by, but they watch their spendings and take the time and effort to see and go to cultural events around the city. I was very impressed by this. I also think it is nice because these cultural events are relatively inexpensive, which I think is why so many people go to them. NOT like the states where an Opera or Musical is easily $75 USD and above, for mediocre seats.
-The food, ahhh... yes, the food. In Ghana I was carb'd out, here I am meat'd out (in a good way)... lamb, pigs meat, pork, rostilj (grilled dishes) cevapcici (minced meat, famous throughout the Balkan regions).
It's neat because they definitely have Turkish influence as well as Meditteranean (love the salads). The fruit and veggies are all from the farm, "domaci" (self-grown) which is excellent, and if you like meat, and more meat, Serbia is the place for you. Oh, and if you like hard liquour as well. The infamous rakia and slivovitz (plum brandy) are national drinks, and phew, it still gives me a kick. So yes, excellent food and drink here. On a side note, there are no qualms about having a drink or two smack in the middle of the day, which is always entertaining.
("palacinke" above, similiar to crepes)
(the above picture is literally at a Doctor's office, at 2pm, with patients waiting. Hey, let's stop for some rakija and kolaci (treats like sweets), ha ha.
-It is relatively cheap. Okay, pretty darn cheap. When my parents were here (refer to Sept blog!) with my brother, we went to a dinner. For the 4 of us, with soups, salads, entre's, drinks, and desserts, it was about $20ish. When I got my hair cut and blow dried at a nice salon (boy, was that in need), $10ish dollars. Buses and public transport, each ride is about 50 cents (do we even have anything in the States that we can buy with cents?? haha). So it was good for me after the expense of Scandinavia.
-There are some aspects that will be in the "bad" section, but for the most part, the bus system is fairly efficient, once you know where you are going. They go all over town and it is fairly convenient.
-In line with what I mentioned about culture and intellect, the people here are extremely social, they are conversational with each other and they like to go out (maybe it's because iphones and blackberries aren't a hit here yet, or that internet in every home is not that common?). And when they go out, they go out. It's not just a weekend thing, the people here are out for drinks any day of the week.... smoking and talking away. I saw this firsthand on Monday and Tuesday nights, etc... it's not like there were any "specials," the people are social and like to get together. I really like that! Maybe I'm a nerd or getting too old where I feel I am always tired, but it is not that often that I would go out on a weeknight. Okay fine, maybe I'm lame. ha ha. Also, and I maybe knew this at some point and then forget, but literally, it wasn't until last year (2009) that Serbians were finally allowed to travel freely in the world. Before this, i.e. war time and sanction time, it was next to impossible to get visa's to travel outside the country. Now, there is a different level enthusiasm that people can travel again (although again, $$ can be restrictive sometimes, but at least the options are out there!).
-Some of this will be mentioned in the "bad" section, but the people here really tell you how it is. No beating around the bush here! They have what they call "black humor" and are definitely self-critical and always talk in irony. They are also ask direct and what we would call "personal" questions... 2 minutes in a conversation meeting someone new, "how old are you?" Next questions, "what is your pay?" Eek. Example, although politics is often a sensitive subject at home, here they will point blank talk about their opinions and ask you for yours. Something we are not used to especially in North America, but hey, always makes for entertaining conversations.
-Family values, I think if anything this may be one of the greatest things. The people really really really are close with their families. Yes, fine, the kids may live at home well into their 30's... and even 40's, BUT they have a family bond that is really great to see. Because life here can be challenging, kids are often reliant on parents for obviously a roof over their heads, but also parents and relatives and "connections" are used for jobs, etc. Here, really, it is who you know. I can't emphasize that enough.
-Longevity - Because it is so difficult to find work here, typically when you get a job, it is your job for life. Really. The good thing is that people are around forever and again, everyone is neighborly because your grocery store clerk is the same clerk for the last 20 years. You not just know their name, but they ask and know about your family, etc. It really gives a sense of community and belonging. Which reminds me of kind of joke my dad said... no offense to psychologists but my dad has said, "we don't need psychologists, we have our neighbors!" Which is soo sooo true. Besides not leaving work for their life, people stay in their family homes for generations.
-It seems most people are fairly active, with walking at least. There are a couple of places like around Ada Ciganlija (a long river island that has walking/biking paths that is about 8 Km), Kalemegdan (old fortress),
Kinez Mihaila (a pedestrian street full of cafe's, shops, and art galleries), and along the Sava River/Danube River (they not only have a walking path, but there are ton of cute restaurants, cafe's and bars along it, i.e. splavovi):
and Danube River. Downtown Belgrade, really, at all times it seems, is usually packed with people strolling and stopping at Kafana's (coffee shops) and I always like an environment that accepts walkers!
The Bad:
-Oh... where to start. JUST KIDDING!
-Obviously, I mentioned the smoking above. I won't go on my rant about how my hair and clothes smell. And here it is absolulely forbidden to EVER tell someone to not only not smoke in your home, but also to do things that I am obnoxious about doing, wave my hand in front of my face, caugh obnoxiously, or even dare to say something. You would for SURE get have an earful... and lose company/friend ASAP. Although it is "banned," I saw not only patients smoke in their hospital rooms or on trains, but saw many employees and staff doing the same. Ah.... just turn away and pretend like you never saw it (which is common with a lot of stuff here).
-I would say it is fairly corrupt. And this dates back for decades, with the 1990's being the worst because it was totally isolated under a corrupt regime and many people say it is still the cause of current problems like illegal construction, traffic chaos, mafia, bureaucracy, etc. Also, it really is who you know here" and I can't explain this enough. Here it really isn't what you know, if you're parents know someone, you will get a job and/or get into medical school. It's almost entertaining how far that can go. Politics is pretty much a given, but where isn't it? Bribery is also nothing unusual. Point example, I was in the car with a friend and he did an "illegal" u-turn. The cop pulled us over, $10 bucks later, we were on the road again whistling away. I saw the same on the buses with people "forgetting" the punch their ticket (to be talked about later). I forget that things like that happen here, and it really is NO big deal to bribe a police officer, "hey, they need the money too." hahah.
-Although yes, the transport system is convenient, they have this stupid ticket system. So you can get on the bus on whatever door, and then you are supposed to stamp this ticket, right? (you get the ticket either from the bus driver or from a newstand vendor). Well, no one checks it. Okay fine, there are random "control" people, and literally, it is soo random and they sometimes don't even get to you because the buses are so packed and it is no wonder that 90% of the bus never stamps their ticket. I admit I "forgot" a couple of times, but then I was becoming to anxious about it and thought, "seriously, it's 50 cents we are talking about." So now the only clunk you hear on the bus is from me! It is actually quite entertaining because each stop everyone in the bus is on the look-out for these "control" people that wear these bright yellow jackets. Then when they see them, everyone runs towards the machines and stamps it... or just leaves the bus to wait for the next one, because again, they come fairly frequently. It's soo funny to me!
Another thing that can be added about the buses/transport is that there are absolutely NO signs or labels telling you where to go and to go along with that, of course no announcements also. I know the language at least, but I can only imagine how it is for tourists.... and anyone that doesn't know where they are going. Good luck. And again, this isn't the upmost friendly environment and even asking for directions it's not guaranteed that person will respond or even help. I've noticed too that some signs are in cryllic alphabet, which was mostly used in Eastern Europe back in the day and the more common alphabet and easier to read is latinica, which how you write it is how you say it. So again, someone that does not know this or is not familiar with it will have a hard time getting around here.
-So I said for the most part, the woman dress up nice and take care of themselves, hair and make-up done, the works. Well, the men are the opposite. They are mostly in sporty clothes, seem kinda lazily put together, and are just casual and sporty most of the time. I am totally generalizing and this doesn't apply to all, but it looks a little bummy if you ask me. This DOES NOT apply to all the guys, but is definitely a fairly generalized observation.
-Yes, as in the "good" some people can be over-the-top welcoming and nice, but they are generally pessismistic and can have negative attitude. I can't even count how many times I heard, "eh, what do you expect? This is Serbia afterall." It can be amusing, but really, I have thought that too many times myself. Along with that, they often have a cranky outlook on life. I even joked with a friend of mine once, saying "ahh... I'm coming from the smiling faces of Scandinavia to now the grumpy faces of Serbia." I'm saying that with love of course!
-You would think something like sending a package or exchanging something would be easy, but ha! Not so, my friend. Those are 2 examples of plenty that I can think of that would take .002 seconds in the USA, but here, you would think I was trying to sell a kid or something. LOTS of red tape about simple stuff.
-Because no one goes anywhere with work (meaning they stay at the same job most of their lives), there is hardly any ambition or desire to grow. I met some therapists that had worked at the same hospital for 25+ years, and they don't have a dime extra to show for it. Granted, in the states things can get ultra competitive and nasty, BUT I think having those opportunities for growth gives people an incentive to do more and have more ambition. Here, and this is why some might say they can be lazy, everyday is like the one before it... same salary, same everything.
The Ugly
-Now this is really ugly and I am almost ashamed and embarassed that this not only happened, but that it happened while I was here. Belgrade held what was supposed to be a gay pride parade, but ended up in a riot with anti-gay protestors. These nationalists and skinheads pretty much destroyed the city, over 100 police officers were hurt in trying to protect marchers. I think there were something like 5000 police there in riot gear before the parade even started, so in turn the rioters turned to damaging the city, they broke into buildings and looted them, smashed windows, burned cars, and also attacked embassies and the Democratic party headquarters. So although they had the parade for the 1st time in more than a decade, intolerence is there more than ever and they are definitely not with the times. People say it was more of a "death march" than a gay march because the nationalists were looting, throwing crowbars, wooden planks, into cars, shops, buses, you name it. Not only that, but many say it was a "political" statement because Hillary Clinton was coming to Belgrade literally 2 days later (I got a lot of action while I was here!), whose sole purpose was to talk about future EU aspirations. It is disappointing and unfortunate that they are not yet ready to be open in acceptance. Oh, and I guess I never said where I was... I fortunately was in Grocka that day with some friends, a nice peaceful village outside of Serbia away from the madness.
-That same week (the above happened on Sunday, this was on that Wed), the Serbian soccer team was in Genoa, Italy to play a Euro 2012 qualifying game. So these right-winged extremists, "hooligans," if you will, pretty much attacked and violated not only the field by throwing flares into the stadium, they also had smoke bombs, metal objects, knives and clubs to use to attack (what's up with this security? How did they even get through with all that?). It was said it was the same "mafia" that led all the craziness with the gay parade, and again, it was said it was for political reasons to damage Serbia's chances of joining the EU and to ruin Serbia's reputation in Europe. The ultra-nationalists are behind all of these disasters, and I guess have been for last decade or so. Some dozen fans were injured and a couple of police officers. Even before the game, their own goalkeeper was attacked and then he didn't even play out of fear. The extremists say they did it because of 20-something years of neglect of the government to pay attention to sport. Again, very very ugly.
-This is more of an "ugly" for asthetic appeal, BUT there are still a few buildings that were bombed during the war and are still standing as is. I remember in 2000-2004 when I came here fairly regularly, it was still there. I thought, "it's not time yet and they have no money." Now it's been more than 10 years and 1/2 of me is like "move on with it. When I have asked the locals why it is still standing there like the bombing happened yesterday and 1st response is "the government wants to make a statement 'what they did to us,' and then "we have no money."
Physical Therapy
I visited a rehabilitation hospital that mostly saw stroke patients and acute patients. This was pretty straight-forward and typical stuff that you see in every setting like this.... getting patients to sit -> stand, walk, exercise. etc. At this hospital, Sveti Sava, I had to admit that the knowledge was there but the environment was a little slow, if you will. Every time I came staff was either taking a break or just about to take a break.... but I guess that is nothing new, right? :-) Then when we went to see a patient, it was pretty quick and although there was encouragement given, it wasn't anything super motivating. This isn't all too untypical where we work, but maybe a little bit more. The paperwork is a system of check marks, which takes all of 5 seconds (lucky them!).
A couple of days I went to this famous sportsmedicine doc's private clinic which has worked with Vladi Divac and other basketball players and Serbian movie stars. Although he was well into his 70's, he had more energy than I do sometimes! He took his time with patients (literally, we had tea with them and there was absolutely no rush whatsoever. I think each visit was about 30 min to an hour at time), gave a thorough evaluation, and I was impressed with his comprehensive knowledge. The ONLY thing that was different, and this I think is fairly common in hospitals here, they LOVE their modalities. Pretty much it is a given that a patient will get some kind of ultrasound, electrical stimulation, laser, or infra-red treatment. The latter was out dated for us back in the 80's and they don't even teach it in school it is so outdated, and again, in the States all the most recent evidence is steering away from modalites. So then insurance companies don't cover it and then we end up not using it as much. Here, they love it and... what can you say? They really believe in it and it works for them.
Then I spent a couple of days at a Veterans hospital. Wow, talk about intense. NOT the hospital, but the hospital is run like a typical military affiliation - direct, to-the-point, organized, efficient, and no B.S.'ing. Kind of intimating, "1st you will do this, then this, then you report back to me and tell me what you think..." Eeek. BUT, here the staff was definitely a lot more on top of their game, eager, and efficient. They too love their modalities (this is laser treatment),
and had some funny contraptions to get patients up and moving,
but again, it works for them. They are also more ambitious and even made me give a power-point presentation entitled, "Physical Therapy in America," to learn about the way we do things and maybe change a few things themselves. They were most surprised by all the schooling we go to, the cost of schools, and how we don't use modalities too much.
All and all, some things are old school, like the modalities like I mentioned and also some old school treatments. For example, we had a guy that came in who had a contusion in his knee and he was not only casted (gasp! We would never never never do that!), but he was walking with a crutch on the opposite side where he should. That is basic and simple knowledge to do the opposite, but things like that happen here. But besides things like that, they generally know their stuff.
Some other things of interest, there is an over supply of therapists and it is almost impossible to get a job. The government is thinking about even stopping the program so that things can catch up. So once you find a job, you don't leave. I met some therapists that easily have worked 20-30 years at the same place. Not just that was rare to me, BUT the therapists make something like 500 USD/month (supposedly doctors make $1000-$1200/month) and there is NO such thing as a raise/bonus or even promotion. That would NOT fly in the States. So then it makes me understand why they can be unmotivated sometimes. Yes, cost of living is much cheaper here and they gasp when I tell them the average that we make (this is one thing to get used to in almost every country I've been in, since the salary is the same, everyone freely talks about it almost the 1st question people always ask me is how much we make).
But first, London for a few days to transit! Here is me in Grocka, beautiful scenery behind!
